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weinsanto

fashion week — fall-winter 2022/2023

march 07, 2022 — text cyril vinchon & yvan maurize

The three words — Murder in Paris — written on the invitation to the runway show conjure up images of the unexpected and spectacular. And the fashion world certainly wasn’t expecting such a sensational display from the star-studded cast.

The walls of 35-37 rue des Francs-Bourgeois are covered in plastic banners that read ‘Weinsanto Paris’. They’re not there to deter people from walking in, but more of an invitation to solve the mystery created by the designer in his fourth collection. The runway begins and the wheels are set in motion, Mimi blazes the trail wearing a ‘Medusa’ headdress, her slight figure clothed in a deck-of-cards print leotard. Weinsanto’s new fall-winter print is a tribute to his muse girlfriends and trains the spotlight on Adriana Pagliai, a good friend and image maker. The house’s signature cuts converge with extravagant crafted pieces and sporty chic ready-to-wear – and the entire scene is shrouded in the mystery of ‘whodunit?’

With a roll of the dice, the designer’s fetish pink and black combo permeates the asymmetrical cuts and shapes of the pieces on show: La Grande Dame flaunts a mini-dress in the same print, revealing 1m10 of endless legs. She’s barely off the catwalk when a sporty chic touch sets off the models’ figures in easy wear, combining padded silk, catsuits, bomber jackets and jersey pieces. A Black Widow appears, and her draped headdress becomes one with her high-waist black pants. The headpiece, made using the ‘Gabrielle’ technique, turns into a backpack. The sudden appearance of singer Sam Quealy casts a shadow over the runway as she stalks down it clad from head to toe in black velour and brandishing a ‘flail’ bag — an obvious medieval reference — suggesting that it might just be the murder weapon. Then it’s over to Allanah Starr to turn heads as she takes center stage, her stunning curves outlined in a figure-hugging dress.

Without the shadow of a doubt, the highlight of the show was the dramatic appearance of the Bride, in the shape of Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, to end the runway. So it was she that pulled all the strings and masterminded operations from beneath a slightly asymmetrical chapeau champignon, embroidered with chains, pearls and strass. Her defiance is a match for anyone who might cross her path as she proudly walks down the runway, in a corset dress that sets off her breathtaking figure.

Once again this season, Victor Weinsanto has given an energy kick to Paris Fashion Week, by confidently asserting his style and taking us back to that seductive, ravishing and assuredly fashionable Paris that we all know and love.

weinsanto fall-winter 2022/2023 — video

weinsanto fall-winter 2022/2023 — collection