In the same vein as the works of Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry reaches out to fantasy creations, at one with the apocalyptic context. It’s easy to imagine a character in one of Enki Bilal’s adventures, glasses perched on the end of his nose, wind blowing through carefully gelled hair, zigzagging among the ruins. Scriptwriter for our lives, Daniel Roseberry proposes adding a bit of spice to the storyline, no holds barred and no beating about the bush — this collection is a nod to Surrealism, and we love it! Certain pieces reflect the heritage of the House, in particular the trompe-l’œil reverse denim outfit, chest-bags, and bodice belts, etc. The jewelry is exuberant and extravagant — you wouldn’t necessarily think of breasts, toes, noses and molars, as subjects for ornament, and yet the daring eye of Daniel Roseberry has made them so. This collection highlights carefully chosen body parts to celebrate feminine power. Enigmatic sets of gilded nipples and pierced ears look almost like relics. Beyond its initial function, the items of jewelry carry a message and escape from their intended meaning — is the padlock there to protect our intimacy, or is it just an artist’s whim? Silhouettes become statues sculpted in imposing materials, frozen in movement. Feet firmly on the ground, they assert their presence with broad shoulders and straight or high waists. They slip further and further away from the control of reason by exaggerating certain limbs, like the black patent lambskin glove pockets with an ivory shearling. Oversize platform shoes and detachable hoods, all these features are combined to give a feeling of flight. The color palette remains intentionally understated so that the light fully reflects off the gilded jewelry. The Schiaparelli woman leaves a few hints to understanding current problems without getting too caught up in them, and reminds us once again that the unexpected is to be expected from Maison Schiaparelli.
text ÉLISA JUGE-HOLTERMANN
schiaparelli fall-winter 2021 — video
schiaparelli fall-winter 2021 — details
