dior
January 21, 2020
Dior, four letters on a gray box, Friday night, Place de la Concorde. Inside, everything is plunged in darkness. Expectations run as high in the wings as they do in the room and the atmosphere is charged, electric. Everything suddenly speeds up and remains petrified. The sound cuts through the silence, and there’s the first look! Bathed in light, a model wearing a shimmering silk moiré evening coat opens the runway. Shoulders draped with strings of crystals and metallic shapes, hands gloved in “Dior oblique” velvet, these are the new silhouettes of an equally sophisticated and subversive elegance. The long shirts and open stitching evoke a poetic dialog between the heritage of the Maison de l'avenue Montaigne and two self-taught Londoners, Kim Jones and above all Judy Blame, an iconoclastic punk artist whose whimsical creativity inspired the collection. The designers’ emblematic jewelry is recycled and superposed, revisited to bedeck hats, adorn necklines and enhance the belts worn in each different look. Safety pins, pearly beads, medallions, buttons – a whole wealth of accessories that embellish the tailored suits and long silk shirts in "toile de Judy", an unprecedented version of toile de jouy designed in collaboration with the Judy Blame trust foundation. Its creative Londoner identity strongly resonates with the know-how of the Parisian fashion house, and the long coat presented at the climax of the evening played out its last dreamlike notes. Embroidered with rhinestones and sequins, referencing a Mark Bohan dress, the look embodies the modern, sensitive and intrinsically elegant Dior man.
text & photographs ARNAUD STUDLER
dior fall-winter 2020
Version française ici.